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Bambu Lab Filament

$20.00 – $285.00 SGD

excl. GST · 9% added at checkout

In stock

Bambu Lab PLA Basic is the everyday workhorse filament: reliable, easy to print and beginner-friendly, with a smooth surface finish and consistent colour. It's the one you'll reach for on prototypes, models and general printing.

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SKU · SQ5732166

Bambu Lab

Bambu Lab Filament

Bambu Lab's own published figures: print temperatures, drying times, and how each material compares on strength, heat and impact.

A refill needs a spool

What you're looking at is the filament on its own, wound into a self-supporting ring around a cardboard core. There's no spool on it. It won't go into a printer or an AMS until it's sitting on one.

That's the whole point of buying it this way. The spool is the expensive, reusable part, so you buy it once and every roll after that costs less. But the first refill of a colour needs something to sit on.

Reusable spools are here, at S$20 new, or S$15 for one of ours that's come back from a previous order, cleaned and checked. If you already have an empty spool from a finished roll, use that and ignore this.

Filament with spool, and the same filament as a refill.
Filament with spool, and the same filament as a refill.

Where this sits in the range

  • 3D printed PLA objects: a pen holder, a vase and a low-poly figurine

    PLAEasiest

    The default. Easiest to print, widest colour range, best surface finish, no enclosure needed. Matte, Silk, Translucent, Glow, Marble, Wood and Sparkle are all PLA wearing a different look.

  • PETG parts: a translucent green wall bracket and a clear lidded box

    PETGTougher

    Stronger and more heat-resistant than PLA, and it shrugs off sun and rain. The right pick for brackets, outdoor fittings and anything that has to flex a little without snapping.

  • ABS parts: a matte black automotive bracket and a vented electronics enclosure

    ABS and ASANeeds enclosure

    The best heat resistance in the everyday range, and the easiest to sand, glue and vapour-smooth. Both warp badly in open air. ASA is the outdoor one: it holds colour under UV.

  • Flexible TPU parts: a phone case and a thick gasket ring

    TPUFlexible

    Rubbery and hard-wearing, for gaskets, grips, phone cases and feet. 95A is firm, 85A is much softer. Only TPU for AMS feeds through an AMS.

  • Carbon-fibre reinforced parts: a drone frame arm and a machine jig bracket

    EngineeringHardened nozzle

    PC, and the fibre blends PLA-CF, PETG-CF, PA6-CF, PAHT-CF, PPA-CF and PPS-CF. Stiff, dimensionally stable and matte, for jigs, fixtures and parts that carry load.

  • A printed lattice sphere beside a dish of water, with support material dissolving

    SupportDissolves or peels

    Printed as a second material on a multi-material machine. PVA dissolves in plain water; Support for PLA/PETG peels away by hand and costs less.

PLA Basic in practice

The yardstick every other filament here gets measured against. A light sheen, not a full gloss, dependable dimensions, and the widest colour range we stock. If a print fails on PLA Basic, the problem is almost never the filament.

Use it for prototypes, fit checks, toys, jigs, cosplay parts and anything that lives indoors on a shelf. It's also what you want for the first print on a new machine, because it removes every variable except the machine itself.

The one limit worth remembering is heat. PLA starts softening around 50°C, and a parked car in Singapore beats that comfortably. If the part will sit in sun or near anything warm, move up to PETG or ASA.

PLA Matte in practice

A powder-matte surface with no shine at all, and it hides layer lines better than anything else in the range. Parts stop reading as 3D printed and start reading as moulded. That's why it photographs so much better than PLA Basic.

The default for display models, props, architectural massing, board-game pieces and gifts. If the object is there to be looked at, not used, Matte is usually the right answer.

Two things to know. It's a little more brittle than PLA Basic, so thin unsupported features snap more easily. And the matte surface scuffs pale instead of shiny, so scratches show as light marks that are hard to polish out. Design around it rather than counting on a fix afterwards.

PLA Silk+ in practice

A high-gloss, almost chrome-like sheen that catches light along every layer. It's the loudest-looking filament we stock, and on the right shape it looks nothing like plastic. The plus version improved layer adhesion over the original Silk, which used to be the material's weak point.

Made for vases, decorative pieces, gifts and anything spiralised. Tall smooth curves show the sheen best. The effect travels along the layer lines, so shapes that sweep upward get the most out of it.

The gloss is unforgiving of anything wrong. Seams, stringing and support scars that would vanish on Matte get lit up on Silk. Slow the outer wall down, put the seam somewhere you can't see, and keep supports off visible faces entirely.

PLA Silk Multi-Color in practice

The colour shifts along the filament itself, so a single nozzle with no AMS produces a print that changes colour as it climbs. Same glossy silk sheen as Silk+, with the transitions built into the spool.

Vases, spiral prints, lamps and single-wall pieces are what this is for. Anything tall and continuous shows the full sweep of colour, and the taller the part, the more of the cycle you see.

The transition length is fixed by the filament, not by your slicer. A small part may only ever show one or two of the colours. Two copies printed back to back won't match either, because the second one started further along the spool. That variation is the point, but it does mean you can't reproduce a piece exactly.

PLA Translucent in practice

Light passes through it, which changes what the material is for entirely. Thin walls glow softly. Thicker sections deepen the colour. It reads more like tinted resin than filament.

Lampshades, diffusers, light guides, window ornaments and anything sitting over an LED. It also makes a striking case material when you want the internals half-visible.

Because you can see inside the part, the infill and every internal structure become part of the design. Use a high wall count or a deliberate infill pattern instead of the default gyroid. It's also the material that shows moisture most plainly. Damp translucent PLA prints cloudy and bubbled, and that's a drying problem, not a defect.

PLA Basic Gradient in practice

The colour fades gradually from one shade to the next along the length of the spool. A plain single-colour print comes out with a smooth vertical gradient: no colour changes, no AMS, no purge waste.

Best on tall prints that use a good stretch of filament in one go: vases, towers, lamps, spiral models. Small parts use too little filament to show a meaningful shift.

Where your part falls in the spool decides its colours, so the first print off a fresh spool and the last one look quite different. Plan the pieces you care most about for the section of the fade you want, and accept that a reprint later won't match.

PLA Sparkle in practice

Fine glitter runs through the whole filament instead of sitting on the surface, so the flecks catch light from every angle and survive sanding. It reads festive, not technical.

Awards, keepsakes, ornaments, jewellery-scale pieces and gifts. It works particularly well on matte-ish shapes where the sparkle is the only thing reflecting.

It's a filled filament, so it's abrasive. Run a hardened-steel nozzle or you'll widen a stainless one within a few spools. The glitter also softens very fine detail slightly, so text and crisp edges come out marginally less sharp than on PLA Basic.

PLA Glow in practice

Charges under light and glows in the dark afterwards. The glow is strongest in the first few minutes and fades over an hour or so, and it recharges indefinitely. Under daylight it looks like a slightly chalky pastel.

Signage, wayfinding, light switches and handles, Halloween and cosplay pieces, and anything a child will take to bed. Thicker walls hold more phosphor and glow noticeably brighter, so don't skimp on wall count.

This is the most abrasive PLA we sell. A hardened-steel nozzle isn't optional. Bambu doesn't recommend it in an AMS lite either, because that unit lacks the extra feed gear. In a full AMS it's fine, but expect it to wear the internal PTFE tubes over time.

PLA Marble in practice

Stone-like veining runs through the material itself. The particles are mixed into the filament, not printed as a pattern, so every part comes out with different veining. Straight off the bed it reads as carved stone, not plastic.

Vases, plinths, planters, coasters, homeware and architectural models. Large flat or gently curved surfaces show the veining best. Busy geometry hides it.

It's particle-filled, so you'll need a hardened nozzle. It also sands beautifully. A light pass with fine paper knocks back the layer lines and pushes the stone illusion much further than the raw print does.

PLA Metal in practice

Metallic pigment gives a cast-metal look with real depth to it, closer to pewter or bronze than to a painted finish. Trophies and plaques come off the plate already looking finished.

Awards, plaques, display pieces, model bases and anything that wants to look weighty. It pairs well with matte black for two-part assemblies.

It's a look, not a metal. It doesn't conduct, it doesn't weigh like metal, and it isn't plated, so don't sell it as such. If a customer needs a genuine mirror-metal finish, that's a plating or painting job, not a filament choice, and the trophy studio is the better route.

PLA Wood in practice

Real wood fibre is mixed into the PLA, so it sands, stains and even smells a little like wood. Sanded and oiled, a printed part is genuinely hard to pick as plastic.

Decorative pieces, model making, signage, picture frames and anything meant to look crafted. It rewards post-processing more than any other filament here. Straight off the bed it's unremarkable. Sanded and finished, it's convincing.

It needs more care than the rest of the PLA family. Bambu lists drying as required, not recommended. It's brittle enough to snap inside a tight feed path, and it isn't recommended for the AMS lite. A 0.6mm nozzle cuts the clogging risk a lot, because wood fibre is the most likely thing in our range to block a 0.4mm.

PLA Pure in practice

Engineered for very low particle and VOC emissions while printing, and certified toy-safe and food-contact-grade as a material. It prints like PLA Basic. The difference is what it gives off and what it's cleared for.

The pick when the printer shares a room with people: homes, classrooms, offices, clinics. Also the sensible default for children's toys and for anything that will touch food indirectly.

One important distinction. Food-contact-grade material doesn't make a food-safe printed part. The layer lines in any FDM print trap residue that washing can't reach, and the nozzle itself may have run other filament. For genuinely food-safe parts you need a food-safe coating or a different process. Ask us and we'll talk it through honestly.

PETG Basic in practice

Formerly sold as PETG HF. Tougher than PLA, noticeably more heat-resistant, and it bends before it breaks instead of snapping. The high-flow formulation prints fast and clean without much tuning.

The right default the moment a part has a job to do: brackets, outdoor fittings, enclosures, watertight vessels, clips that need to flex. It also handles UV and rain far better than PLA.

Two habits sort out almost every PETG complaint. Dry it, because damp PETG strings badly and PETG picks up moisture faster than PLA. And put glue on the plate, not for adhesion but as a release layer. PETG grips bare PEI hard enough to pull chunks out of the sheet.

PETG Translucent in practice

The toughness and weather resistance of PETG with the pigment left out, so light passes through. Thicker and more impact-resistant than translucent PLA, and it survives outdoors.

Covers, sight glasses, light pipes, protective screens, bottles and anything that needs to be both see-through and durable. It's the better choice over translucent PLA anywhere the part gets handled or exposed.

This is the single most revealing filament we stock when it comes to moisture. Bambu lists drying as required, not recommended. Skip it and translucent PETG comes out visibly bubbled and cloudy. If a print looks foggy, dry the spool and run it again before you assume anything's wrong.

ABS in practice

The classic engineering plastic, and still the best in the range for post-processing. It sands without clogging paper, glues with solvent into a genuinely fused joint, and smooths with acetone vapour to a glossy finish no other filament here reaches.

Enclosures, automotive trim, tooling, prop and model making, and any part destined for painting. If the print is a stepping stone to a finished object, not the object itself, ABS is usually the right material.

It needs an enclosed printer and a 90 to 100°C bed, door shut and glass on. It shrinks as it cools, and in open air that lifts corners and splits layers partway up tall parts. It also has a noticeable smell while printing, so ventilate the room or run a machine with filtration.

ASA in practice

ABS with UV stability engineered in. Same strength, same heat resistance, same easy post-processing, but it holds its colour outdoors instead of chalking and yellowing after a season in the sun.

Outdoor signage, garden and irrigation fittings, exterior automotive parts, roof-mounted brackets, marine fittings. Anywhere a part goes outside and has to still look right in a year, this is the material.

It prints like ABS and carries the same requirements: enclosed printer, 90 to 100°C bed, ventilation. If a part is going outside, the small premium over ABS is always worth paying, because you can't fix UV damage later.

TPU 95A HF in practice

Firm flexible, roughly the feel of a shoe sole or a skateboard wheel. It bends and returns without creasing, and it's extremely hard-wearing. TPU outlasts every rigid filament here in abrasion and impact.

Phone cases, machine feet, grips, bumpers, drive belts, protective sleeves and gaskets that need to hold a shape. The high-flow formulation prints noticeably faster than older TPU while staying easy to feed.

It has to run from an external spool holder in a straight, unobstructed path, or from an AMS HT bypass outlet. It won't feed through an AMS channel. Keep speed to 30 to 50mm/s, turn retraction almost off, and dry it before every print without exception.

TPU for AMS in practice

The only flexible filament in the range that'll feed through an AMS. Bambu stiffened the formulation just enough to survive the curved path. That unlocks something no other TPU can do: flexible parts in more than one colour, or rigid and flexible materials in the same print.

Multi-colour grips, two-tone cases, seals printed directly onto a rigid body, and any job where swapping spools by hand mid-print isn't practical.

The trade for feedability is a slightly firmer, less stretchy part than TPU 95A HF. If maximum squish matters more than automation, use the 95A on an external holder instead. It still needs drying before every print, and it still wants slow speeds.

TPU 85A in practice

Much softer than 95A, closer to a rubber band than a shoe sole. It stretches a long way and conforms to shapes instead of holding its own. That's exactly what some jobs need, and exactly what makes it awkward.

Soft grips, squeeze bulbs, cushioning, wearable padding, seals that have to conform to an uneven face, and anatomical or prosthetic-adjacent models.

This is the hardest filament we sell to feed. Push it at all quickly and it buckles in the extruder, so give it the shortest, straightest path you can and keep speeds low. It won't go through any AMS, and Bambu doesn't recommend it with high-flow nozzles. Start with 95A unless you specifically need the extra softness.

PC in practice

Polycarbonate is the toughest everyday material in the range. It's genuinely impact resistant, not just strong, and it stays rigid at temperatures that leave PETG soft. It also prints slightly translucent, which surprises people.

Light housings, machine guards, structural brackets, parts near motors or in enclosures, and anything that has to survive both heat and a knock. It's the sensible step up when PETG keeps failing on heat.

It's demanding. It needs a 100 to 120°C bed and an enclosed printer, no exceptions. Drying is required, not recommended: PC soaks up moisture fast and prints badly damp. Glue stick on the plate, not liquid glue. Give it a chamber that holds heat, or tall parts will delaminate no matter how good the profile is.

PLA-CF in practice

Chopped carbon fibre in a PLA base. It's markedly stiffer than plain PLA and holds dimensions better, with a fine matte texture that hides layer lines almost as well as Matte does. It's the gentlest introduction to fibre-filled printing.

Jigs and fixtures, RC and drone parts, camera rigs, tool holders and light structural brackets. Anywhere you want a part that won't flex under load but don't need heat resistance.

Stiffer means more brittle. It resists bending, then snaps instead of yielding when it finally goes. It's abrasive, so you'll need a hardened-steel nozzle, and Bambu recommends a 0.4mm hardened as first choice for this one specifically. It's still PLA, so the 50°C heat ceiling hasn't moved.

PETG-CF in practice

Carbon fibre in a PETG base, so you keep PETG's toughness and weather resistance and add stiffness and dimensional stability. It comes out matte black with a fine texture, and it warps far less than plain PETG.

Functional brackets, drone and RC frames, outdoor fixtures that can't be allowed to flex, jigs and fixtures. It's the practical middle ground between PLA-CF and the nylons.

You'll need a hardened nozzle. It works in a full AMS but isn't recommended in an AMS lite, which lacks the feed gear to handle it. An enclosed printer is recommended, as with all PETG, to keep layer bonding strong.

PA6-CF in practice

Carbon-fibre reinforced nylon 6. Very strong, very stiff, and unusually wear resistant. That's what makes nylon the standard choice for parts that rub against something else for a living.

Gears, bearings, bushings, cable guides, structural brackets, tooling and anything under sustained mechanical load. This is where printed parts start genuinely replacing machined ones.

Nylon is the thirstiest material we sell. It pulls moisture out of Singapore air within hours, and damp nylon prints foamy and weak. Dry it before every print and keep it sealed with desiccant while it's printing. It needs a hardened nozzle, a 100 to 120°C bed and an enclosed printer with a heated chamber. An AMS HT is close to essential if you print this regularly.

PAHT-CF in practice

High-temperature carbon-fibre nylon. Everything PA6-CF does, at a service temperature that reaches into territory where standard nylon starts to give up, and it holds its dimensions better as it heats.

Under-bonnet automotive parts, jigs that go through heat cycles, motor mounts, and functional parts that live near something warm. If a nylon part is failing on heat, not on load, this is the upgrade.

The same discipline as PA6-CF, and no less of it: dry before every print, seal with desiccant during, hardened nozzle, enclosed printer with a heated chamber. Bambu's first pick of nozzle for this class is 0.6mm hardened steel, 0.4mm second. The wider hole clogs far less.

PPA-CF in practice

A carbon-fibre reinforced high-performance polyamide, printed at 285 to 320°C. Very high stiffness and strength with a service temperature well beyond standard nylon. This is metal-replacement territory.

Structural brackets that would otherwise be machined aluminium, high-load jigs, motorsport and aerospace-adjacent fixtures, and tooling that has to hold tolerance while hot.

Check your machine before you order. It needs a hardened nozzle that reaches 320°C and an enclosed printer with a heated chamber, and it won't feed through any AMS. Drying is required, and it's one of the materials even an AMS HT may not fully dry, so a convection oven at 100 to 140°C is the reliable route.

PPS-CF in practice

The top of the range, printed at 310 to 340°C. Outstanding chemical resistance, flame retardance and dimensional stability at temperature. It shrugs off solvents and fuels that would destroy every other material here.

Chemical handling parts, fuel-system components, high-temperature electrical work, and demanding industrial fixtures. Specialist work, not everyday printing.

Only the H2 series and the X1E reach these temperatures at all, so nothing else we sell will print it. It needs a hardened nozzle and it won't go through an AMS. Like PPA-CF, it needs oven drying at 100 to 140°C, which is hotter than any AMS gets. Talk to us before you order so we can confirm your machine and settings.

PVA in practice

Support material that dissolves completely in plain water. Print it as the second material on a multi-material machine, drop the finished part in a tub, and the supports simply disappear over a few hours. Warm water and gentle agitation speed it up considerably.

It buys you geometry you can't otherwise print: internal channels, captured moving parts, deep undercuts, hollow shells, lattices. Anywhere pliers can't reach, PVA is the only answer.

It's the most moisture-hungry filament we stock, and damp PVA won't feed through an AMS at all. Keep it sealed with desiccant, dry it before use, and print it soon after opening. It's also the most expensive way to make supports, so reach for Support for PLA/PETG on ordinary overhangs and save PVA for jobs that genuinely need dissolving.

Support filament in practice

A support material that bonds weakly enough to the model that it peels away in one piece, leaving a clean surface underneath instead of the scarring that same-material supports leave behind.

Overhangs, bridges and undersides on anything where the finish matters: display models, prop parts, anything customer-facing. Printed as an interface layer it uses very little material for a large improvement in surface quality.

It doesn't dissolve, so it can't reach enclosed geometry. That's PVA's job. For everything your fingers can get to, this costs a fraction as much and is far less hassle, and it doesn't need drying before every print the way PVA does.

Printing PLA well

PLA is the one material that mostly just works. A textured PEI plate at 45 to 65°C, the stock profile, and no enclosure needed. On an enclosed printer, leave the door open and the glass off so the chamber doesn't overheat and soften the filament on its way in.

Its one real limit is heat. Above roughly 50°C PLA softens and creeps, so a part left on a dashboard or in a parked car in Singapore will sag. Anything living outdoors or near heat wants PETG, ASA or PC instead.

Watch the filled finishes. Wood, Marble, Sparkle and Glow carry hard particles that widen a stainless nozzle within a few spools. Run those on a hardened-steel hotend, and keep Glow and Wood out of an AMS lite, which lacks the extra feed gear to handle them.

PLA: the widest colour range and the best surface finish.
PLA: the widest colour range and the best surface finish.

Printing PETG well

PETG is tougher and more temperature-tolerant than PLA. It's the sensible default the moment a part has a job to do instead of a shelf to sit on. Bed at 60 to 80°C, nozzle 230 to 260°C. An enclosed printer is worth having, because a cold draught weakens the bond between layers.

Two habits fix nearly every PETG complaint. Dry it, because PETG picks up moisture faster than PLA and damp PETG strings badly. And slow the first layer down, because PETG grips a PEI plate hard enough to take chunks out of it. A glue stick between the two protects the plate. It isn't there to help adhesion.

PETG Translucent is the same material with the pigment left out, and it shows moisture worse than anything else we sell. If it comes out cloudy and bubbled, it's damp, not faulty.

PETG: outdoor parts and anything that must not snap.
PETG: outdoor parts and anything that must not snap.

Printing ABS and ASA well

Both need an enclosed machine and a 90 to 100°C bed, with the door shut and the glass on. They shrink as they cool, and in open air that shrinkage lifts corners off the plate and splits layers apart partway up a tall part.

In exchange you get the best post-processing in the range. ABS sands, glues and vapour-smooths better than any other filament here. That's why prop and model makers keep coming back to it.

Pick ASA if it lives outside. It's ABS with UV stability added, so it holds colour instead of chalking and yellowing. Ventilate the room either way. Both give off a noticeable smell while printing, and a machine with a filter is worth having if it runs near a desk.

ABS and ASA: heat resistance and a finish you can sand.
ABS and ASA: heat resistance and a finish you can sand.

Printing TPU well

TPU is flexible, which is exactly what makes it awkward to feed: push it too fast and it buckles in the extruder instead of moving forward. Keep it to 30 to 50mm/s, turn retraction down to almost nothing, and expect it to take its time. Bed at 30 to 45°C, nozzle 200 to 250°C.

Only TPU for AMS goes through an AMS. The 95A and 85A spools have to run from an external spool holder in a straight, unobstructed path, or from the AMS HT's bypass outlet. Force soft filament through an AMS channel and it jams.

Dry it before every print, no exceptions. And 85A is far softer than 95A. Softer means harder to feed, so start with 95A unless you specifically need the extra squish.

TPU: gaskets, grips, cases and feet.
TPU: gaskets, grips, cases and feet.

Printing engineering filament well

These reward preparation and punish improvisation. All of them want drying before every print, a hardened-steel nozzle, and an enclosed printer with a heated chamber. PC and the nylons in particular will delaminate in a cold room no matter how good your profile is.

Use a 0.6mm nozzle if you can. Bambu's own first choice for fibre-filled material is 0.6mm hardened steel, with 0.4mm second, because a wider orifice clogs far less. Never a 0.2mm. Fibre blends are also brittle enough to snap inside an AMS feed path, so check the AMS column before loading one.

The ladder runs roughly PLA-CF and PETG-CF (stiff, easy), then PC and PA6-CF or PAHT-CF (strong, fussy, 100 to 120°C beds), then PPA-CF and PPS-CF at 285 to 340°C, which only the H2 series and X1E reach at all.

Engineering blends: stiff, stable, and abrasive.
Engineering blends: stiff, stable, and abrasive.

Using support material

Support filament is printed as a second material on a machine with an AMS or a second nozzle. It goes exactly where normal supports would, except it comes away without marking the part.

PVA dissolves in plain water. Drop the finished part in a tub, leave it a few hours, and internal channels and captured geometry you could never reach with pliers simply vanish. It's the most moisture-hungry material we sell, so keep it sealed, dry it before use, and print it soon after.

Support for PLA/PETG doesn't dissolve. It bonds weakly enough to the model that it peels off in one piece, which covers most overhangs at a fraction of the price. Reach for PVA only when the support is somewhere your fingers can't go.

Support material frees up geometry you couldn't otherwise print.
Support material frees up geometry you couldn't otherwise print.

Damp filament is the usual culprit

Filament pulls moisture out of the air. In the nozzle that water flashes to steam, the melt foams, and you get stringing, pitted surfaces, popping noises and parts that break well below their rated strength. Singapore's humidity makes this the most common reason a print that used to come out fine no longer does.

The picture is Bambu's own test: one spool, one profile, dried against undried. The bubbles in the left-hand part are trapped steam, and no slicer setting fixes them.

PLA and PETG will forgive a few weeks in the open. TPU, PVA, PC, nylon and anything fibre-filled won't. An AMS 2 Pro dries and stores in one box up to 65°C. Anything that needs hotter than that takes an AMS HT or an oven.

The same translucent PETG, undried and dried. Bambu Lab photo.
The same translucent PETG, undried and dried. Bambu Lab photo.

Buying it here

Everything on this page is genuine Bambu Lab filament held in stock in Singapore, on 1.75mm spools and refills with the RFID tag intact. Self-collect at Bendemeer, or take islandwide courier delivery.

Prices exclude GST. We add 9% at checkout. Bulk pricing applies automatically once there are enough spools in the cart.

Not sure what suits the part? Send the file through the instant quote and we'll print it for you instead, in whichever of these is right for the job.

Print settings

Bambu Studio already carries these presets for genuine Bambu filament.

MaterialNozzle °CBed °CEnclosureHardened nozzleAMS
PLA Basic, Matte, Silk, Metal, Pure190–24045–65Not neededNoYes
PLA Wood, Marble, Sparkle190–24045–65Not neededMarble and SparkleYes, but not AMS lite
PLA Glow210–24045–65Not neededYesYes, but not AMS lite
PLA-CF210–24045–65Not neededYesYes
PETG HF, PETG Translucent230–26060–80RecommendedNoYes
PETG-CF240–27060–80RecommendedYesYes, but not AMS lite
ABS, ASA240–28090–100RequiredNoYes, but not AMS lite
TPU for AMS, TPU 95A HF200–25030–45Not neededNoTPU for AMS only
TPU 85A200–25030–45Not neededNoNo
PC260–290100–120RequiredNoYes
PA6-CF, PAHT-CF260–300100–120RequiredYesYes
PPA-CF285–320100–120RequiredYesNo
PPS-CF310–340100–120H2 series or X1EYesNo
PVA190–24045–65Not neededNoYes, once dry
Support for PLA, Support for PLA/PETG190–24045–65Not neededNoYes

Swipe the table sideways for every column

Bed figures are for a textured or smooth PEI plate. Don't run a 0.2mm nozzle with any fibre-filled or particle-filled filament. The clogging risk is high. For those, Bambu's first choice is 0.6mm hardened steel and second choice 0.4mm.

Strength, heat and impact

Bambu Lab's own five-point ratings. Tensile strength is how much pull a part takes before it fails. Impact is how well it survives a drop. They pull in opposite directions, so the stiffest materials are also the most brittle.

MaterialHeat resistanceImpactTensile strengthDry before use
PLA, including Metal, Wood and Marble★★☆☆☆★★☆☆☆★★★☆☆Recommended
PLA-CF★★☆☆☆★★☆☆☆★★★★☆Recommended
PETG, PETG HF, PETG Translucent★★★☆☆★★★☆☆★★☆☆☆Required
PETG-CF★★★☆☆★★★☆☆★★★☆☆Recommended
ABS, ASA★★★☆☆★★★☆☆★★★☆☆Recommended
PC★★★★☆★★★★☆★★★★☆Required
PA6-CF, PAHT-CF and the high-temp blends★★★★★★★☆☆☆★★★★★Required
TPU★☆☆☆☆★★★★★★☆☆☆☆Required
PVA★☆☆☆☆★☆☆☆☆★☆☆☆☆Required

Swipe the table sideways for every column

Drying times

Pick the row, then the equipment you have. An AMS is the convenient route. The printer's own heated bed under a cover works too, and costs nothing.

MaterialConvection ovenAMS 2 ProAMS HTPrinter bed
PLA Basic, PLA Matte50°C, 8 h45°C, 12 h45°C, 12 h60–70°C, 12 h
PLA Silk, PLA-CF and the filled PLAs55°C, 8 h45°C, 12 h45°C, 12 h65–75°C, 12 h
PETG, PETG-CF60–65°C, 8 h65°C, 12 h65°C, 12 h75–85°C, 12 h
ABS, ASA75–85°C, 8 hToo hot for it80°C, 8 h90–100°C, 12 h
TPU70°C, 8 hNot reliable75°C, 18 h80–90°C, 12 h
PC75–85°C, 8 hToo hot for it80°C, 8 h90–100°C, 12 h
PA6-CF, PAHT-CF75–85°C, 8–12 hToo hot for it85°C, 12 h90–100°C, 12 h
PVA75–85°C, 8–12 hToo hot for it85°C, 18 h90–100°C, 12 h
PPA-CF, PPS-CF100–140°C, 8–12 hToo hot for itToo hot for it110–120°C, 10–12 h

Swipe the table sideways for every column

"Too hot for it" means the material needs a higher drying temperature than that unit reaches, so it never dries all the way through. The AMS 2 Pro tops out at 65°C and the AMS HT at 85°C. You can't dry filament on an open-frame printer (A1, A1 mini, P1P). Flip the spool halfway through a bed dry so it heats evenly, and wear gloves when you do.

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