Bambu Lab Hotend
$23.00 – $155.00 SGD
excl. GST · 9% added at checkout
Made to order
Quick-swap nozzle assembly for the A1 and A1 mini. Hardened steel, so it takes abrasive filament (carbon fibre, glow, glitter, wood fill) without wearing out. 0.4mm is the everyday size.
Made to order, ships in about 7 days.
SKU · SQ3462016
Bambu Lab
Bambu Lab Hotend
Which hotend fits which machine, what the nozzle is made of, and what each size is good at.
By printer
Hotends aren't interchangeable between series.
A1 seriesFrom S$23
A1 and A1 mini. It's a quick-swap nozzle assembly, not a full hotend, which is why it's the cheapest of the lot. One lever, about a minute.
P1 seriesS$65
P1P and P1S. A complete hotend with the heater and thermistor built in, so you replace a worn or badly clogged unit outright instead of unpicking it.
X1 seriesS$65
X1 Carbon and X1E. The same complete-assembly design as the P1: nozzle, heater and thermistor in one part.
H2 and P2 seriesFrom S$34
H2S, H2D, H2C, P2S and X2D. Quick-swap hotends. The standard version fits every machine in the group; the high-flow versions are machine-specific.
The A1 quick-swap assembly
The cheapest replacement in the range, and the fastest to change.
The A1 and A1 mini take a nozzle assembly, not a full hotend. That's why it's the cheapest replacement in the range at S$23. One lever, about a minute, no tools and no wiring.
It's cheap enough that keeping a spare 0.4mm hardened on the shelf costs almost nothing, and it saves you a stalled job. Hardened steel is the sensible default here. It's the same price as stainless, and it survives the filled PLAs an A1 owner is most likely to try.
Stainless is the only option at 0.2mm, so that's what you buy for miniatures. Keep it away from anything filled.
The P1 complete hotend
One part carries the nozzle, the heater and the thermistor, so a tired heat path comes out in one go.
The P1P and P1S take a complete hotend: nozzle, heater cartridge and thermistor in one assembly at S$65. You're replacing the whole heat path instead of picking a clogged nozzle apart. That's the right trade when a machine is earning.
It takes a few minutes and one screwdriver. If prints keep failing on and off and calibration hasn't fixed it, a tired hotend is a common culprit. Swapping the assembly rules out the heater and thermistor at the same time.
Hardened steel for anything filled or abrasive, stainless for the cleanest surface on plain PLA and PETG.
The X1 complete hotend
This is the machine most likely to be running abrasive material, so it's the one to keep a spare for.
The X1 Carbon and X1E use the same complete-assembly design as the P1: nozzle, heater and thermistor in one S$65 part.
X1 owners tend to run more engineering material than most, and that's exactly what wears a nozzle out. If you print carbon-fibre or glass-filled blends regularly, treat a hardened-steel hotend as a consumable and keep a spare.
The X1E adds the chamber heating that PPS-CF and PPA-CF need, and those are the most abrasive materials Bambu sells. Don't fit anything but hardened steel for them.
The H2 and P2 quick-swap hotend
The only family that gets high flow and tungsten carbide.
The H2S, H2D, H2C, P2S and X2D share a quick-swap hotend that changes without tools. The standard version is S$34 and one part fits every machine in the group.
It's the only family where you can get high flow, from S$95, or tungsten carbide at S$155. High flow pushes more material per second and takes up to 30% off a long print. Carbide is for daily abrasive work, where hardened steel would still need replacing several times a year.
The high-flow versions are machine-specific even though the standard one isn't, so pick the H2 or the P2 variant to match. And on a dual-nozzle machine like the H2D or X2D, both sides must run the same type and size.
One clip, and it's out
No tools, no wiring to unplug, no cold pull first.
Quick-swap means a single release clip on the front of the toolhead. Press it, the hotend comes out, the new one drops in.
That matters more than a convenience feature sounds. A nozzle change stops being a job you put off until the weekend. In practice you'll swap to a 0.2mm for one detailed print and back again, or drop in a hardened nozzle for an abrasive roll instead of running it through the one you've got.
The P1 and X1 assemblies further up this page are the older design. Still straightforward, but it's a few minutes and a screwdriver instead of a click.
Abrasive filament is what kills nozzles
The orifice widens before anything else tells you.
Carbon-fibre and glass-filled blends, glow-in-the-dark, glitter, sparkle, marble and wood fill all carry hard particles in them. In a stainless or brass nozzle they widen the orifice within a few spools. The symptoms creep up on you: lines get fat, dimensions drift, surfaces roughen. It reads like a slicer problem, not a worn part.
Hardened steel is the answer. Buy it if there's any chance you'll print those materials. It costs the same as stainless across the A1 range and very little more elsewhere.
Stainless steel leaves a slightly cleaner surface on plain PLA and PETG. It's also the only material offered at 0.2mm. Keep it away from composites.
Tungsten carbide is the top tier. It's for heavy daily abrasive work, the sort where you'd still be replacing a hardened nozzle a few times a year.
A wider hole, fewer hours
Nozzle size is the one setting you buy instead of changing in the slicer.
A wider nozzle lays down a thicker line. The same model finishes sooner, but you can see the layers. A narrower one holds detail and takes longer to get there. That's the whole trade, and it's why almost every machine leaves the factory with a 0.4mm on it.
The other half of it is clogging. A 0.2mm orifice blocks on a speck a 0.8mm would never notice. That's why you keep the smallest size for miniatures instead of leaving it in.
Standard or high flow
It buys hours on a long job and almost nothing on a short one.
Standard is the right buy for almost everyone, and it's the only type made for the A1, P1 and X1.
High flow is an H2 and P2 upgrade, from S$95. It pushes more material per second and takes up to 30% off print time without giving up precision. It earns that back on long production runs and large parts. On a handful of small prints a week you'll barely notice.
One thing to watch. The standard H2 hotend is a single part that fits both the H2 and the P2, but the high-flow versions are machine-specific. Pick the one that matches yours.
Fitting and when to replace
Nothing here needs a tool the printer didn't come with.
Every hotend here is a genuine Bambu part, and it goes in with the tools that came with the printer, nothing more. The A1 and H2 or P2 assemblies are lever-and-click. The P1 and X1 units take a few minutes and one screwdriver.
Replace it when line width drifts, when dimensions creep despite a good calibration, or after a clog that a cold pull and a needle won't shift. Keeping a spare 0.4mm on the shelf is cheap insurance if the machine is earning.
Prices exclude GST. We add 9% at checkout. If you're not sure which part your machine takes, message us the model and we'll confirm before you order.
Nozzle size, plainly
0.4mm is the default and prints almost everything. Change it only when you have a specific reason.
| Size | Best for | Trade-off | Fibre-filled filament |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.2mm | Miniatures, crisp small text, fine detail | Slowest by a wide margin, clogs most easily | Never: the clogging risk is too high |
| 0.4mm | Everything, unless you have a reason not to | None worth mentioning | Yes, in hardened steel |
| 0.6mm | Functional parts, larger models, faster jobs | Softer fine detail | Bambu's first choice for these materials |
| 0.8mm | Big draft parts and one-off prototypes | Layers clearly visible, detail is gone | Yes, in hardened steel |
Swipe the table sideways for every column
As the diameter goes up, detail drops but so does the clogging risk. On a dual-nozzle machine like the H2D or X2D, both sides must run the same type and size.