Bambu Lab Filament

PLA Basic in practice

The yardstick every other filament here gets measured against. A light sheen, not a full gloss, dependable dimensions, and the widest colour range we stock. If a print fails on PLA Basic, the problem is almost never the filament.

Use it for prototypes, fit checks, toys, jigs, cosplay parts and anything that lives indoors on a shelf. It's also what you want for the first print on a new machine, because it removes every variable except the machine itself.

The one limit is heat. PLA starts softening around 50°C, and a parked car in Singapore beats that comfortably. If the part will sit in sun or near anything warm, move up to PETG or ASA.

PLA Matte in practice

A powder-matte surface with no shine at all, and it hides layer lines better than anything else in the range. Parts stop reading as 3D printed and start reading as moulded. That's why it photographs so much better than PLA Basic.

The default for display models, props, architectural massing, board-game pieces and gifts. If the object is there to be looked at, not used, Matte is usually the right answer.

Two things to know. It's a little more brittle than PLA Basic, so thin unsupported features snap more easily. And the matte surface scuffs pale instead of shiny, so scratches show as light marks that are hard to polish out. Design around it rather than counting on a fix afterwards.

PLA Silk+ in practice

A high-gloss, almost chrome-like sheen that catches light along every layer. It's the loudest-looking filament we stock, and on the right shape it looks nothing like plastic. The plus version improved layer adhesion over the original Silk, which used to be the material's weak point.

Made for vases, decorative pieces, gifts and anything spiralised. Tall smooth curves show the sheen best. The effect travels along the layer lines, so shapes that sweep upward get the most out of it.

The gloss is unforgiving of anything wrong. Seams, stringing and support scars that would vanish on Matte get lit up on Silk. Slow the outer wall down, put the seam somewhere you can't see, and keep supports off visible faces entirely.

PLA Silk Multi-Color in practice

The colour shifts along the filament itself, so a single nozzle with no AMS produces a print that changes colour as it climbs. Same glossy silk sheen as Silk+, with the transitions built into the spool.

Vases, spiral prints, lamps and single-wall pieces are what this is for. Anything tall and continuous shows the full sweep of colour, and the taller the part, the more of the cycle you see.

The transition length is fixed by the filament, not by your slicer. A small part may only ever show one or two of the colours. Two copies printed back to back won't match either, because the second one started further along the spool. That variation is the point, but it does mean you can't reproduce a piece exactly.

PLA Translucent in practice

Light passes through it, which changes what the material is for entirely. Thin walls glow softly. Thicker sections deepen the colour. It reads more like tinted resin than filament.

Lampshades, diffusers, light guides, window ornaments and anything sitting over an LED. It also makes a striking case material when you want the internals half-visible.

Because you can see inside the part, the infill and every internal structure become part of the design. Use a high wall count or a deliberate infill pattern instead of the default gyroid. It's also the material that shows moisture most plainly. Damp translucent PLA prints cloudy and bubbled, and that's a drying problem, not a defect.

PLA Basic Gradient in practice

The colour fades gradually from one shade to the next along the length of the spool. A plain single-colour print comes out with a smooth vertical gradient: no colour changes, no AMS, no purge waste.

Best on tall prints that use a good stretch of filament in one go: vases, towers, lamps, spiral models. Small parts use too little filament to show a meaningful shift.

Where your part falls in the spool decides its colours, so the first print off a fresh spool and the last one look quite different. Plan the pieces you care most about for the section of the fade you want, and accept that a reprint later won't match.

PLA Sparkle in practice

Fine glitter runs through the whole filament instead of sitting on the surface, so the flecks catch light from every angle and survive sanding. It reads festive, not technical.

Awards, keepsakes, ornaments, jewellery-scale pieces and gifts. It works particularly well on matte-ish shapes where the sparkle is the only thing reflecting.

The glitter softens very fine detail slightly, so text and crisp edges come out marginally less sharp than on PLA Basic. Size small lettering up a notch rather than hoping it holds at the same point size.

PLA Glow in practice

Charges under light and glows in the dark afterwards. The glow is strongest in the first few minutes and fades over an hour or so, and it recharges indefinitely. Under daylight it looks like a slightly chalky pastel.

Signage, wayfinding, light switches and handles, Halloween and cosplay pieces, and anything a child will take to bed. Thicker walls hold more phosphor and glow noticeably brighter, so don't skimp on wall count.

It's the most abrasive PLA we stock, which makes the hardened-nozzle rule in the panel below non-negotiable for this one. If an AMS lite is your only feeder, plan on loading this one by hand.

PLA Marble in practice

Stone-like veining runs through the material itself. The particles are mixed into the filament, not printed as a pattern, so every part comes out with different veining. Straight off the bed it reads as carved stone, not plastic.

Vases, plinths, planters, coasters, homeware and architectural models. Large flat or gently curved surfaces show the veining best. Busy geometry hides it.

It sands beautifully, and that's where the material earns its keep. A light pass with fine paper knocks back the layer lines and pushes the stone illusion much further than the raw print does.

PLA Metal in practice

Metallic pigment gives a cast-metal look with real depth to it, closer to pewter or bronze than to a painted finish. Trophies and plaques come off the plate already looking finished.

Awards, plaques, display pieces, model bases and anything that wants to look weighty. It pairs well with matte black for two-part assemblies.

It's a look, not a metal. It doesn't conduct, it doesn't weigh like metal, and it isn't plated, so don't sell it as such. If a customer needs a genuine mirror-metal finish, that's a plating or painting job, not a filament choice, and the trophy studio is the better route.

PLA Wood in practice

Real wood fibre is mixed into the PLA, so it sands, stains and even smells a little like wood. Sanded and oiled, a printed part is genuinely hard to pick as plastic.

Decorative pieces, model making, signage, picture frames and anything meant to look crafted. It rewards post-processing more than any other filament here. Straight off the bed it's unremarkable. Sanded and finished, it's convincing.

It asks for more care than the rest of the PLA family. Bambu list drying as required, not recommended, and wood fibre is the likeliest thing in our range to block a 0.4mm nozzle, so move up to 0.6mm if you have one. It's brittle too, brittle enough to snap inside a tight feed path.

PLA Pure in practice

Engineered for very low particle and VOC emissions while printing, and certified toy-safe and food-contact-grade as a material. It prints like PLA Basic. The difference is what it gives off and what it's cleared for.

The pick when the printer shares a room with people: homes, classrooms, offices, clinics. Also the sensible default for children's toys and for anything that will touch food indirectly.

One important distinction. Food-contact-grade material doesn't make a food-safe printed part. The layer lines in any FDM print trap residue that washing can't reach, and the nozzle itself may have run other filament. For genuinely food-safe parts you need a food-safe coating or a different process. Ask us and we'll talk it through honestly.

PETG Basic in practice

Tougher than PLA, noticeably more heat-resistant, and it bends before it breaks instead of snapping. Bambu rebuilt the formulation for the V3.0 data sheet, and tensile strength came out at 51 MPa flat, above ABS, above ASA and above almost every PLA we stock.

The right default the moment a part has a job to do: brackets, outdoor fittings, enclosures, watertight vessels, clips that need to flex. It also handles UV and rain far better than PLA.

It's the easiest PETG to slot into a machine you already own: every nozzle size from 0.2 to 0.8mm, every AMS including the lite, and no hardened steel needed. Drying and the glue-as-release-layer habit are covered in the PETG panel further down.

PETG Translucent in practice

The toughness and weather resistance of PETG with the pigment left out, so light passes through. Thicker and more impact-resistant than translucent PLA, and it survives outdoors.

Covers, sight glasses, light pipes, protective screens, bottles and anything that needs to be both see-through and durable. It's the better choice over translucent PLA anywhere the part gets handled or exposed.

Two things shape how you design for it. It's the softest PETG we stock, 1,420 MPa against PETG Basic's 2,780, so a thin wall flexes further than you'd expect. And it won't run through a 0.2mm nozzle at all, so fine detail has to come out of the geometry rather than out of a smaller orifice.

ABS in practice

The classic engineering plastic, and still the best in the range for post-processing. It sands without clogging paper, glues with solvent into a genuinely fused joint, and smooths with acetone vapour to a glossy finish no other filament here reaches.

Enclosures, automotive trim, tooling, prop and model making, and any part destined for painting. If the print is a stepping stone to a finished object, not the object itself, ABS is usually the right material.

One thing to plan for at the modelling stage: ABS is far tougher across the print than along it. A bracket that gets levered or dropped wants its layers running perpendicular to the load, not stacked in line with it. Enclosure, bed and ventilation are all in the ABS and ASA panel further down.

ASA in practice

Same strength as ABS, same heat resistance, same easy post-processing, but it holds its colour outdoors instead of chalking and yellowing after a season in the sun.

Outdoor signage, garden and irrigation fittings, exterior automotive parts, roof-mounted brackets, marine fittings. Anywhere a part goes outside and has to still look right in a year, this is the material.

If the part is going outside, the small premium over ABS is always worth paying. UV damage can't be undone: once the surface has gone chalky and the colour has faded, paint is the only way back. Printing it is identical to ABS either way.

TPU 95A HF in practice

Firm flexible, roughly the feel of a shoe sole or a skateboard wheel. It bends and returns without creasing, and it's extremely hard-wearing. TPU outlasts every rigid filament here in abrasion and impact.

Phone cases, machine feet, grips, bumpers, drive belts, protective sleeves and gaskets that need to hold a shape. The high-flow formulation prints noticeably faster than older TPU while staying easy to feed.

Of the three TPUs it's the one to start with. Firmer than 85A, so it actually feeds. Stretchier than TPU for AMS, so it still behaves like rubber. One thing the name doesn't tell you: high flow describes the filament, not the hotend, and this won't run on a high-flow nozzle.

TPU for AMS in practice

The only flexible filament in the range that'll feed through an AMS. Bambu stiffened the formulation just enough to survive the curved path. That unlocks something no other TPU can do: flexible parts in more than one colour, or rigid and flexible materials in the same print.

Multi-colour grips, two-tone cases, seals printed directly onto a rigid body, and any job where swapping spools by hand mid-print isn't practical.

The trade for feedability is a slightly firmer, less stretchy part than TPU 95A HF, and a weaker one across a layer line: 11.2 MPa upright against the 95A's 22.3. If maximum squish matters more than automation, run the 95A off an external holder instead.

TPU 85A in practice

Much softer than 95A, closer to a rubber band than a shoe sole. It stretches a long way and conforms to shapes instead of holding its own. That's exactly what some jobs need, and exactly what makes it awkward.

Soft grips, squeeze bulbs, cushioning, wearable padding, seals that have to conform to an uneven face, and anatomical or prosthetic-adjacent models.

It takes 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzles only, so check you own one before you order. Bambu's geometry limits for it are the tightest on this page too, roughly 40° of overhang and 10mm of bridge, so design the supports in rather than hoping the material spans. The feeding discipline in the TPU panel below matters more here than for anything else we sell.

PC in practice

Polycarbonate is the toughest everyday material in the range. It's genuinely impact resistant, not just strong, and it stays rigid at temperatures that leave PETG soft. It also prints slightly translucent, which surprises people.

Light housings, machine guards, structural brackets, parts near motors or in enclosures, and anything that has to survive both heat and a knock. It's the sensible step up when PETG keeps failing on heat.

Two details are PC's alone. Glue stick on the plate, never liquid glue. And it's the only material in this group without fibre in it, so a stock 0.4mm hotend prints it and you don't need hardened steel. The rest of the discipline is in the engineering panel below, and PC is the material that punishes skipping it.

PLA-CF in practice

Chopped carbon fibre in a PLA base. It's markedly stiffer than plain PLA and holds dimensions better, with a fine matte texture that hides layer lines almost as well as Matte does. It's the gentlest introduction to fibre-filled printing.

Jigs and fixtures, RC and drone parts, camera rigs, tool holders and light structural brackets. Anywhere you want a part that won't flex under load but don't need heat resistance.

Stiffer means more brittle. It resists bending, then snaps instead of yielding when it finally goes. It's abrasive, so you'll need a hardened-steel nozzle, and Bambu recommends a 0.4mm hardened as first choice for this one specifically. It's still PLA, so the 50°C heat ceiling hasn't moved.

PETG-CF in practice

Carbon fibre in a PETG base, so you keep PETG's toughness and weather resistance and add stiffness and dimensional stability. It comes out matte black with a fine texture, and it warps far less than plain PETG.

Functional brackets, drone and RC frames, outdoor fixtures that can't be allowed to flex, jigs and fixtures. It's the practical middle ground between PLA-CF and the nylons.

You'll need a hardened nozzle. It works in a full AMS but isn't recommended in an AMS lite, which lacks the feed gear to handle it. An enclosed printer is recommended, as with all PETG, to keep layer bonding strong.

PA6-CF in practice

Carbon-fibre reinforced nylon 6. Very strong, very stiff, and unusually wear resistant. That's what makes nylon the standard choice for parts that rub against something else for a living.

Gears, bearings, bushings, cable guides, structural brackets, tooling and anything under sustained mechanical load. This is where printed parts start genuinely replacing machined ones.

It's the one nylon here that no AMS will feed, so it loads by hand and it wants a sealed dry box beside the machine rather than an open spool holder. Drying, hardened nozzle and heated chamber are all in the engineering panel below.

PAHT-CF in practice

High-temperature carbon-fibre nylon. Everything PA6-CF does, at a service temperature that reaches into territory where standard nylon starts to give up, and it holds its dimensions better as it heats.

Under-bonnet automotive parts, jigs that go through heat cycles, motor mounts, and functional parts that live near something warm. If a nylon part is failing on heat, not on load, this is the upgrade.

Unlike PA6-CF it will feed through an AMS, though not an AMS lite, which makes it much the easier of the two nylons to live with day to day. The trade is a little less raw pull, 92 MPa tensile flat against PA6-CF's 102, for heat performance you can actually use.

PPA-CF in practice

A carbon-fibre reinforced high-performance polyamide, printed at 285 to 320°C. Very high stiffness and strength with a service temperature well beyond standard nylon. This is metal-replacement territory.

Structural brackets that would otherwise be machined aluminium, high-load jigs, motorsport and aerospace-adjacent fixtures, and tooling that has to hold tolerance while hot.

Check your machine before you order. Not every hotend reaches the 320°C this wants, no AMS will feed it, and no AMS will dry it either: 100 to 140°C in a convection oven is the only route. What you get back is 168 MPa tensile flat, the strongest figure on this page by a wide margin.

PPS-CF in practice

The top of the range, printed at 310 to 340°C. Outstanding chemical resistance, flame retardance and dimensional stability at temperature. It shrugs off solvents and fuels that would destroy every other material here.

Chemical handling parts, fuel-system components, high-temperature electrical work, and demanding industrial fixtures. Specialist work, not everyday printing.

Talk to us before you order so we can check your machine against the job. It wants the same oven drying as PPA-CF, and no AMS gets near that temperature. Mechanically it's the odd one out of the two: 87 MPa tensile flat where PPA-CF manages 168, and only 24 MPa upright. You buy PPS-CF for what it resists, not for what it holds.

PVA in practice

Support material that dissolves completely in plain water. Print it as the second material on a multi-material machine, drop the finished part in a tub, and the supports simply disappear over a few hours. Warm water and gentle agitation speed it up considerably.

It buys you geometry you can't otherwise print: internal channels, captured moving parts, deep undercuts, hollow shells, lattices. Anywhere pliers can't reach, PVA is the only answer.

It's the most moisture-hungry filament we stock, and damp PVA won't feed through an AMS at all. Keep it sealed with desiccant, dry it before use, and print it soon after opening. It's also the most expensive way to make supports, so reach for Support for PLA/PETG on ordinary overhangs and save PVA for jobs that genuinely need dissolving.

Support filament in practice

A support material that bonds weakly enough to the model that it peels away in one piece, leaving a clean surface underneath instead of the scarring that same-material supports leave behind.

Overhangs, bridges and undersides on anything where the finish matters: display models, prop parts, anything customer-facing. Printed as an interface layer it uses very little material for a large improvement in surface quality.

It doesn't dissolve, so it can't reach enclosed geometry. That's PVA's job. For everything your fingers can get to, this costs a fraction as much and is far less hassle, and it doesn't need drying before every print the way PVA does.

Buying it here

Everything on this page is genuine Bambu Lab filament held in stock in Singapore, 1.75mm, with the RFID tag intact. Self-collect at Bendemeer, or take islandwide courier delivery.

Prices exclude GST. We add 9% at checkout. Bulk pricing applies automatically once there are enough spools in the cart.

Not sure what suits the part? Send the file through the instant quote and we'll print it for you instead, in whichever of these is right for the job.

How to read these numbers

Most properties come with two figures, because a printed part isn't the same in every direction.

Flat means the test bar was printed lying down, so the pull runs along the layers. Upright means it was printed standing up, so the pull is trying to peel the layers apart. Upright is always the smaller number and it's the honest one to design around, because a real part almost always has load crossing a layer line somewhere.

Impact is quoted twice in the flat direction, unnotched and notched. Unnotched is a clean bar. Notched has a groove cut into it to start the crack, which is much closer to what a sharp corner or a screw hole does to a part. The notched figure is smaller and more conservative.

Heat deflection comes at two loads. The 1.8 MPa figure is the part under real load; the 0.45 MPa figure is barely loaded and always flatters the material. Both are here so you can see the gap.

All of it is measured on Bambu's own test bars: 100% infill, one fixed speed and temperature, dried, and for PLA annealed afterwards. A part at 15% infill with two walls will not reach these. Bambu says the same in their own words, that the values are for design reference and comparison rather than a guarantee. And they publish a diameter tolerance on only three of these sheets, so where the row reads 1.75 mm, that is the whole of what Bambu states.

There is no data sheet for PLA Pure

Bambu publish no technical data sheet for this one, so there's nothing to put in a table, and we're not going to borrow PLA Basic's numbers and print them under a different name.

No density, no tensile strength, no heat deflection, no diameter tolerance. If you need mechanical figures for a load-bearing part, use PLA Basic and print it in PLA Basic.

What Bambu do publish for PLA Pure is the composition and the certifications, and that's the point of the material. Five ingredients: PLA from corn and sugarcane, an acrylate copolymer of the kind used in children's toys, colourants of the kind used in baby dinnerware, ethylene bis stearamide (the stuff in food cling film), and asbestos-free talc, used in biodegradable straws.

Three certifications sit behind it. UL GREENGUARD under ANSI/CAN/UL 2904, which measures VOCs and particulates given off while printing, in a 1 m³ chamber over four to five hours on an A1 and a P2S. EU Regulation No. 10/2011 for food contact, migration tested at 70°C for two hours against water, oil and acid simulants. And EN 71-3 under the EU Toy Safety Directive. It's the only PLA Bambu list as food-contact grade; their PLA page says plainly that apart from PLA Pure, PLA filaments are not.

Bambu's own caveats are worth repeating rather than burying. Don't use printed parts above 60°C or below 0°C, not with acids, alkalis, solvents or corrosives, and not for long immersion in liquid food. Start with a brand new non-brass nozzle and keep it as the PLA Pure nozzle. Don't share the print path with high-temperature or fibre-filled filament. Skip the glue and clean the plate with dish soap after each print. Raise sparse infill to 20 to 40% so there are fewer internal voids for dirt to sit in. Drying is 55°C for 8 hours in a blast oven, 45°C for 12 hours in an AMS 2 Pro or AMS HT with the filament inserted, or 60 to 70°C for 12 hours on the bed.